COSMECEUTICAL CRITIQUE: Master formulators: The ‘Julia Childs’ of skin care
During his tenure in the industry, Friedman has faced many hurdles in creating his natural formulations – achieving esthetics, efficacy, and physical stability at temperature extremes while maintaining microbiological integrity and using more green, renewable ingredients while formulating with fewer petrochemicals. His breakthrough natural formulations developed at Burt’s Bees are emulated and marketed widely today.
Sergio Nacht
Location: Las Vegas
Sergio Nacht is a biochemist, researcher, and product developer with 48 years of formulation experience. Currently, he is chief scientific officer/cofounder at resolutionMD and Riley-Nacht.
“A better understanding of the structure and function of the skin has resulted in the development of better functional products that deliver clinically demonstrable benefits and not only ‘hope in a jar,’ ” he has said.
Nacht has coauthored more than 50 scientific papers, and he holds 17 international and U.S. patents.
Possibly his most significant accomplishment followed the discovery of what he believes is one of the biggest challenges in skin care formulation. Microsponge Technology is the first – and still the only – U.S. Food and Drug Administration–approved controlled-release technology for topical products that maximizes efficacy while minimizing side effects and optimizing cosmetic attributes by allowing slow release of ingredients. The microsponge is used to provide various therapeutic solutions for antiaging, acne treatment, skin firming, skin lightening, and mattifying – most notably as the lead technology behind Retin-A Micro.
Byeong-Deog Park
Location: Seoul, South Korea
Byeong-Deog Park holds a Ph.D. in industrial chemicals from Seoul National University, among his other achievements. Dr. Park’s company, Neopharm, is located in Seoul. He is a true scientist who has been awarded many patents in the areas of ceramides for the treatment of dry skin and atopic dermatitis; PPAR (peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor)-alpha in the treatment of inflammatory disorders; and an antimicrobial peptide, Defensamide, which has been shown to prevent colonization of Staphylococcus aureus. His research led to the development of a proprietary MLE (multilamellar emulsion) technology in which lipids and ceramides form the identical Maltese cross structure that is seen in the natural lipid barrier of the skin, allowing effective skin barrier repair.
With MLE technology, the ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol required for an intact skin barrier are replaced in the proper ratio and three-dimensional structure needed to emulate the skin’s natural structure. This reforms the skin’s barrier and prevents water evaporation from the skin’s surface. Dr. Park has said that he is most proud of his patented MLE technology, found in the brands Atopalm and Zerafite. He also combined MLE technology and Defensamide in an atopic dermatitis treatment known as Zeroid.
Dr. Park never ceases to impress me with his scientific knowledge and dedication to the scientific method. In a field where many products are considered “hope in a jar,” his cosmetically elegant products stand out as “verified science in a jar.”
Gordon Dow
Location: Petaluma, Calif.
Gordon Dow started Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences in his garage. Today, Dow Pharmaceutical Sciences (recently acquired by Valeant Pharmaceuticals International) is a leading company in the formulation and manufacturing of dermatological products.
Over the past 25 years, Dow has commanded the company’s evolution by carefully balancing science and business. He previously served as vice president of research and development for Ingram Pharmaceuticals, where he developed seven commercially successful products, including four dermatologicals. He also served as the executive secretary of the research advisory panel for the State of California. A few of Dow’s best-known products include MetroGel, Ziana, and Acanya.
The passion for science and skin care of these individuals has shaped the dermatologic landscape for the best. They would probably agree with Julia Child, who once said, “Find something you’re passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it.”
Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in Miami Beach. She founded the cosmetic dermatology center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (McGraw-Hill, April 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (Bantam, 2006). She has contributed to the Cosmeceutical Critique column in Skin & Allergy News since January 2001. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Galderma, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Stiefel, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.
