Chestnut extract
A related chestnut species also has been linked to dermatologic uses. In East Asia, a skin firming/antiwrinkle formulation features the inner shell of Castanea crenata as an active ingredient.13 In 2002, Chi et al. showed that the chestnut inner shell extract improved cell-associated expression of the adhesion molecules fibronectin and vitronectin. They also found that scoparone (6,7-dimethoxycoumarin) isolated from the chestnut extract exhibited comparable qualities. The investigators concluded that the enhanced expression of adhesion molecules imparted by the chestnut inner shell extract may account for the prevention of cell detachment and the manifestation of antiaging effects.13
Allergy
It is worth noting that chestnut is one of the many allergens associated with the latex-fruit syndrome.14 However, in a patch test investigation of the skin irritation potential of C. sativa leaf extract in 20 volunteers, Almeida et al. identified five phenolic compounds in the extract (chlorogenic acid, ellagic acid, rutin, isoquercitrin, and hyperoside) and found it safe for topical application.6 Chestnut is considered to pose a low to moderate risk of inducing allergic reactions.9
Conclusion
Recent research appears to suggest the in vitro antioxidant activity of sweet chestnut and potential for use in topical formulations. There remains a paucity of in vivo evidence, however. While much more research is necessary to determine whether it has a place in the dermatologic armamentarium, current data are intriguing.
References
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5. A Modern Herbal (vol. I). New York: Dover Publications, 1971, p. 195
6. Basic Clin Pharmacol Toxicol. 2008 Nov;103(5):461-7
7. J Photochem Photobiol B. 2015 Mar;144C:28-34
8. J Ethnopharmacol. 2014 Aug 8;155(1):463-84
9. J Sci Food Agric. 2010 Aug 15;90(10):1578-89
10. Food Sci Technol Int. 2010 June;16(3):209-16
11. Drug Dev Ind Pharm. 2015 Jan;41(1):148-55
12. Biosci Biotechnol Biochem. 2010;74(8):1527-33
13. Arch Pharm Res. 2002 Aug;25(4):469-74
14. Allergy. 2007 Nov;62(11):1277-81
Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever.
