Cosmeceutical Experts Agree on Best Antiaging Products

"It is curious to me that at many of our meetings, research presented to support product claims is oftentimes no more than anecdotal evidence. If you critically look at the presentation and the actual data, you would be remiss to believe that product X actually works," he said.

On the other hand, the lack of double-blind studies of a particular product or ingredient does not mean that it isn’t helpful. By reviewing the biochemistry, basic science, and clinical observations of a treatment, dermatologists can steer patients toward a potential treatment, said Dr. Wendy E. Roberts, a dermatologist in Rancho Mirage, Calif.

She compared her approach to cosmeceuticals to the correlations she makes as a dermatopathologist. "Under the microscope it could be many things, but you match it with the clinical information and come up with a diagnosis. We can kind of use that model with cosmeceuticals," she said. "With our expertise, we know that there’s this body of evidence, we know the activity, and we have our living lab, which is our patients [whom we] see every day. Those observations can lead to further observations."

Many reports in the medical literature describe antiaging benefits from ingredients like peptides, vitamin C, alpha and beta hydroxy acids, lactic acid, retinol, niacinamide, and other ingredients, which can be incorporated into moisturizer formulas, Dr. Roberts said.

Although the three pillars of cosmeceutical regimens are cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreen, limiting the discussion to those vague terms is "so 1990s," she said. "As a cosmetic dermatologist, it is my job to be able to know the science of a product and recommend the cosmeceutical for that skin type. Working in the capital of sun-damaged skin, I see how certain cosmeceuticals alone can improve skin qualities."

Dr. Leslie Baumann of Miami Beach also said that ingredients other than moisturizer and sunscreen are necessary, depending on the patient’s skin type. She has patients complete a questionnaire to help determine skin type, and matches ingredients to that type.

Sensitive skin types, for example, need anti-inflammatory ingredients, she said. Aged skin benefits from retinoids. Lighteners can help skin with unwanted pigment.

Dermatologists have an ethical responsibility to advise patients on the best cosmeceutical options and on more affordable options if they exist. "Sometimes cheaper products will suffice, and sometimes they will not," Dr. Baumann said.

Dr. Draelos has been a consultant and researcher for Avon, Dial, Johnson & Johnson, L’Oréal, Nu Skin, Procter & Gamble, and Stiefel. Dr. Marmur disclosed financial relationships with Allergan, DUSA Pharmaceuticals, Genentech, Medicis, Merz, and Sanofi-Aventis. Dr. Gold has been a consultant or researcher for Allergan, Medicis, Mentor (Johnson & Johnson), Merz, Galderma, and numerous other companies.

Dr. Roberts has had financial relationships with Allergan, Johnson & Johnson, L’Oréal, La Roche–Posay, and Ortho Dermatologics. Dr. Baumann has led or participated in research trials for more than 50 cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies. Dr. Lizzul had no relevant disclosures.

SDEF and this news organization are owned by Elsevier.