Cosmeceutical Critique: Ginkgo Biloba

Researchers conducted in vitro and in vivo studies of the activity of terpene-free G. biloba extract containing 33% ginkgo flavone glycosides, mostly quercetin and kaempferol derivatives, with the antioxidant SOD as a positive control. Results of both the in vitro electron spin resonance (ESR) assays and in vivo experiments on anti-inflammatory models with cutaneous blood flux measured by a laser Doppler perfusion imager, corroborated the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of the ginkgo extract and its capacity for protecting skin from free radical damage. This study also indicated an optimal concentration for ginkgo extract, above or below which its beneficial actions subside (J. Pharm. Pharmacol. 1999;51:1435-40).

In an earlier study, ginkgo extracts, particularly the flavonoid components quercetin, kaempferol, sciadopitysin, ginkgetin, and isoginkgetin, were shown to enhance the proliferation of normal human skin fibroblast in vitro as measured by MTT (3-[4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl]-2,5-diphenyl-tetrazolium bromide) assay and direct hemocytometer cell count. Various additional assays of fibroblasts incubated with G. biloba extracts and ascorbic acid and controls incubated only with ascorbic acid demonstrated increased collagen and extracellular fibronectin synthesis in the treatment group (Skin Pharmacol. 1997;10:200-5).

Products

Like many herbal ingredients, ginkgo is used in a small but growing number of topical products. The Hydramax Ginkgo Biloba PhytoSerum (1 fl. oz./$15.50) is a moisturizer intended to restore chapped and severely dehydrated skin. The product is formulated with 2% standardized time-released phytoliposomes of G. biloba and buttressed by a cocktail of organic herb concentrates of white willow bark, ivy, comfrey, chamomile, mallow, and G. biloba as well as numerous emollient and essential oils in an organic aloe vera serum.

The Rejuvenex Body Lotion (6 oz./$21.60) features a highly purified alpha-glycolic acid, but includes ginkgo extract and vitamin E to protect against the skin irritation that high concentrations of glycolic acid can engender.

Ginkgo extract is increasingly found among the lists of the unadvertised or inactive ingredients in more and more topical skin care products. For example, two of the three products in the emerginC Crease Ease Kit ($250) – the emerginC crease ease emulsion (50 ml) and the emerginC crease ease gel (eye/lip area – 30 mL) – contain G. biloba along with a long list of other herbal ingredients.

Conclusion

Whether in oral or topical form, G. biloba extracts do not reek like the fruit of the tree; otherwise, such products might never make their way to the shelf. Use in aromatherapy would also be precluded. Fortunately, the offensive odor dissipates after separation of the nut from the seed shell and subsequent cleaning.

In topical products, various components of ginkgo are used more often as ancillary ingredients, though some formulations now feature this increasingly popular herbal ingredient. Preliminary research suggests reasons for optimism and should spur further investigation as to the overall health benefits conferred by G. biloba.

The research on vitiligo is particularly compelling from a dermatologic perspective. More study is required to ascertain whether topical formulations can harness the apparent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects to confer significant cutaneous benefits. More randomized controlled trials will build on what is currently a small but intriguing body of evidence.