Ursolic acid
Antiaging and other activities
In 2015, Herndon et al. conducted an open-label clinical trial in 37 females (aged 35-60 years) to ascertain the effectiveness of an anti-aging moisturizer containing Astragalus membranaceus root extract, a peptide blend including palmitoyl tripeptide-38, standardized rosemary leaf extract (ursolic acid), tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD ascorbate), and ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10). Subjects were instructed to apply the moisturizer once in the morning and once in the evening, and were assessed at baseline, and after 4, 8, and 12 weeks of twice daily application. Clinical evaluations after 8 weeks revealed a statistically significant improvement in all grading parameters (fine lines and wrinkles, clarity/brightness, visual roughness, tactile roughness, redness, hyperpigmentation, and overall appearance), with even more pronounced improvement at 12 weeks. The product was found to be mild and well tolerated, and digital photography reinforced clinical assessments and self-evaluations.19
Lee et al. reported in 2012 on in vitro results suggesting that ursolic acid was effective as an inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 after UVB exposure and was more effective than retinoic acid.20
Based on studies with hairless mice, Lim et al. found in 2007 that ursolic and oleanolic acids can enhance the recovery of skin barrier function and, via peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor-alpha, spur epidermal keratinocyte differentiation. They concluded that both acids have potential for use as agents to promote epidermal permeability barrier function.21
,In 2003, Soo et al. observed that pretreatment with ursolic acid inhibited UVA-induced oxidative stress and activation and expression of MMP-2 in HaCaT human keratinocytes. They concluded that ursolic acid may merit attention for the prevention of UVA-induced photoaging.22
Three years earlier, Yarosh et al. showed that liposomes containing ursolic acid augmented ceramide content in cultured normal human epidermal keratinocytes and collagen content in cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts. Over an 11-day period, clinical tests with the ursolic acid–containing liposome (Merotaine) revealed increases in the ceramide content in human skin.23 Two years later, many of the same researchers duplicated their results. This new study also demonstrated that ursolic acid liposomes raise ceramide levels in normal human epidermal keratinocytes, in contrast to the effects of retinoic acid, earlier shown to reduce such levels. They concluded that ursolic acid liposomes show promise for use alone or in combination to replenish or maintain cutaneous ceramide and collagen levels.24 Notably, ursolic acid is incorporated into topical oils and creams intended to confer rejuvenating effects to the skin.
Conclusion
Ursolic acid is a compelling ingredient. I especially will be interested in the results of ongoing human clinical trials of this triterpenoid for treating cancer and skin wrinkles. As it is, ursolic acid is known to exert significant inhibitory activity against tumor formation and tumor cell viability in the laboratory. Given its wide range of biologic activity, and some promising cutaneous results, there is reason to believe that ursolic acid has the potential to play an increasingly useful role in topical skin care agents and dermatologic practice.
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Dr. Baumann is chief executive officer of the Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in the Design District in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote the textbook “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002), and a book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Her latest book, “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients,” was published in November 2014. Dr. Baumann has received funding for clinical grants from Allergan, Aveeno, Avon Products, Evolus, Galderma, GlaxoSmithKline, Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Mary Kay, Medicis Pharmaceuticals, Neutrogena, Philosophy, Topix Pharmaceuticals, and Unilever. Dr. Baumann also developed and owns the Baumann Skin Type Solution skin typing systems and related products.
