Bakuchiol
In 2010, Ohno et al. found that bakuchiol, along with other ingredients, isolated from Piper longum demonstrated strong suppressive activity against melanin production in B16 mouse melanoma cells and may have potential to affect melanin synthesis in human skin.19 Further, with use of a new method for screening tyrosinase, Cheng et al. found in 2017 that four substances used in traditional Chinese medicine (quercetin, kaempferol, bavachinin, and bakuchiol) displayed the potential for inhibiting tyrosinase.20
Conclusion
A compound that acts like a retinoid – yielding antiacne and antiaging effects – without provoking irritation? Most dermatologists and their patients would say, sign me up. Bakuchiol, an active ingredient in various plants, especially Psoralea corylifolia, seems to present that kind of profile. While more research is necessary, experience with this herbal ingredient in traditional medicine and an increasing body of research, including clinical results, provides reasons for optimism that this ingredient may have a versatile role to play in topical skin care, particularly in its retinoid-like functions.
Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur who practices in Miami. She founded the Cosmetic Dermatology Center at the University of Miami in 1997. Dr. Baumann wrote two textbooks: “Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2002) and “Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients” (New York: McGraw-Hill, 2014), as well as a New York Times Best Sellers book for consumers, “The Skin Type Solution” (New York: Bantam Dell, 2006). Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Evolus, Galderma, and Revance. She is the founder and CEO of Skin Type Solutions Franchise Systems. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.
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